Cabernet Sauvignon Still King of California Red Wine

Ever since Bordeaux wines reached star status a few hundred years ago, cabernet sauvignon has been one of, in not the most important and revered of red wine varieties. This has definitely been the case in California over the last fifty years. And even with more attention being paid to a number of other varieties in recent years, cabernet sauvignon still is California's most popular red grape and red wine.

According to The Wine Institute, cabernet sauvignon continues to be the most widely planted red grape in California. This bounty is translated into wines in a wide range of price categories. While Bordeaux is the traditional benchmark and notable Cabernet Sauvignon wine is produced in Washington, Australia, Chile and Italy, California arguably is the contemporary standard bearer for the variety.

As with most wine, the vast majority of Cabernet Sauvignon, namely those in the lower price range (say $10-$20), is meant to be drunk within the first 3-5 years. Look for a focus on varietal fruit characteristics – aromas and flavors of dark berries, plum and currant. The appeal of these wines is that they are immediately accessible, good values just right for everyday drinking. The wines below are straightforward but show good varietal character and also are affordable restaurant choices.

2005 Concannon Selected Vineyards 2005 Gnarly Head California 2004 Kenwood Sonoma County 2004 Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve

In addition to tasty fruit, a quality cabernet sauvignon is characterized by medium- to full-body, good structure, and noticeable oak and tannin. As prices increase, expect more character, depth and concentration. The selections below (all in the $20-$30 range) provide a lot of wine for a little more money.

2004 Souverain Alexander Valley 2004 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley 2005 Ghost Pines Winemaker's Blend 2005 Frei Brothers Alexander Valley Reserve 2005 Summers Napa Valley Andriana's Cuvee 2004 Chateau St. Jean Sonoma County 2004 Hanna Alexander Valley 2004 Burgess Napa Valley 2003 Wild Oak Sonoma County

What most captivates aficionados of cabernet sauvignon, though, is that it is capable of developing enticing layers of complexity. You may encounter an array of nonfruit characteristics, including herb, olive, mint, tobacco, spice, cocoa, cedar, anise and earth. These are best in small accents, not as dominant qualities. Although this complexity comes at a premium and requires a little patience (say five to nine years), with the wines below (all between $30-50) it is worth it.

2004 Clos du Val Napa Valley 2004 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley 2003 Tefethen Napa Valley Oak Knoll District 2004 Chateau Souverain Alexander Valley Winemaker's Reserve 2004 Stags' Leap Napa Valley 2003 Grgich Hills Napa Valley

In certain prime locations, cabernet sauvignon is one of the few wines capable of combining all of the components mentioned above into a complete package. When all these qualities come together, as they do in the wines below, you find a great balance of fruit, structure and richness providing depth, concentration, complexity, and an ability to improve over ten to twenty years. High prices (I'm taking over $50) mean high expectations, which, in these wines are met.

2004 The Hess Collection Mount Veeder 2004 Arrowood Sonoma County Unfined and Unfiltered 2004 Joseph Phelps Napa Valley 2004 St. Clement Oroppas 2003 Kuleto Estate Napa Valley 2003 Duckhorn Napa Valley Estate Grown 1999 Mayacamas Napa Valley

Cabernet also often is the dominant component in Bordeaux-style blends, sometimes labeled as "Meritage" in California. This follows the Bordeaux tradition of blending to create a complete, more multidimensional wine. Although most wines labeled "Cabernet Sauvignon" are likely to have some merlot and occasionally a little of the other Bordeaux varieties – cabernet franc, malbec or petit verdot – mixed in, the wines below include larger percentages of these other grapes but cabernet still plays a significant role.

2004 Kendall-Jackson Vintners's Reserve Meritage 2003 Gundlach-Bundschu Mountain Cuvee 2004 Sebastiani Secolo Alexander Valley 2003 Girard Artistry 2004 Dry Creek Vineyard The Mariner 2004 Terlato Vineyards Napa Valley Angel's Peak

Finally, as the quintessential red wine, cabernet sauvignon is a fine match for most any meat, although beef and lamb are most often mentioned. It also is a good foil for dishes with a noticeable herbal quality and is a fine choice to accompany hard, aged cheeses.

With all this going for it, I think we can expect Cabernet Sauvignon to continue to be so popular for a long time.