Marcia Polas - ADVENTURES IN GLUTEN-FREE

Pilates + Chefs: Where Worlds Collide

I began writing this column to draw attention to restaurants who make it easy to be a Celiac and eat incredible food. I wanted to explore the places that allow me to feel normal when I go out to lunch or dinner. I’m a one of those Pilates teachers who  loves great food and love that with Pilates, I get to have the best of both worlds – a strong, healthy, gorgeous body, and a love of great food.

I have immense respect for chefs. I think the greatest thing you can do is feed someone. Perhaps that’s my Italian upbringing or perhaps it’s my irritating food allergy – but the idea of someone creating something special for me to eat feels like an amazing gift of caring.

Several months ago, I had the opportunity to allow my worlds to collide in the most incredible way possible. I was invited to teach Pilates to a group of chefs from one of Denver’s most amazing restaurant families. Frank and Jacqueline Bonanno of The Bonanno Group hired me to bring Pilates to 10 of their chefs (from Luca D’Italia, Mizuna, and Bones) twice a week.

I was on cloud nine! I have wanted to bring Pilates to a group like this for years, and on top of that, here were these business owners who didn’t just talk about caring for the wellness of their team, they were poised to do something about it. I was a little nervous that I would be enough. That what I have to offer would resonate with such creative and talented professionals.

I affectionately call this class PilatesForChefs (use the # if you want to follow it on Twitter) and am thrilled to say that my chefs (yes, that’s how I think of them) are true Pilates students. They work as hard or harder than any client I’ve ever taught. They bring Pilates into the kitchen and allow it to impact how they use their bodies every day, and over the last few months, they have made amazing gains in strength and flexibility (please note that their strength impressed me from the very beginning, but watching them get stronger each week is awe-inspiring). I like to Tweet that my chefs can kick any other chef’s ass. And I love that twice a week they let me kick their ass. Oh, and sometimes, they feed me.

So this month, I had intended to introduce you to Hunter Pritchett and his team at Luca D’Italia. But a funny thing happened on my way to planning that column, so you’ll have to wait a month or so for my boys (my Luca chefs are all boys) at Luca.  This month, I need to tell you about Jon Robbins and the chefs at Mizuna.

This is how it began. I have had the thrill of eating at Luca several times. The food is always amazing and I love sitting at the bar with a pal or two and chatting with Mo (she is frequently who you’ll find behind the bar there). At some point, Hunter will pop out to say hello and inevitably, I run back to the kitchen to make the boys uncomfortable! But on this particular Friday, I was invited to drop by Mizuna, and I simply couldn’t say no.

I was south of the city, picking up a book case I had just purchased off Craig’s List and planning to go to a movie solo – with Friday night dinner to consist of popcorn. I got a Tweet inviting me to Mizuna to try the spring menu and allow them to give their “trainer some love.” You only have to ask me once.

So in a Pilates dress (I wear lots of Pilates dresses – almost all black - something I can throw on over Pilates clothes so my butt isn’t hanging out as I run around town) with an awkward ponytail (my hair isn’t long enough for a ponytail but it had been one of those days), I walk into one of the prettiest restaurants in Denver. And by pretty, I don’t mean feminine or delicate. Mizuna is just a lovely, beautiful space.

I’m greeted (actually at the valet) by Jacqueline and ushered in. I take a seat at the end of the bar so I can actually watch the chefs throughout my meal. Next to me is seated a gal who is solo celebrating her 35th birthday before a big party the next night. She’s come in to treat herself to the lobster mac and cheese (sooo NOT gluten-free!). I love that she wanted to have that experience solo.

I proceed to do what I always do when I know a chef. I say, “You know the rules, bring me what you want me to eat.” Jon shouts from the kitchen to ask just how hungry I am. I request that he doesn’t “make me fat.” He tells me to cry uncle when I need to – but to make sure I have room for dessert. The gal next to me is intrigued and can’t wait to see what they will bring me.

I love food – great food. Have we established that? And no, I haven’t been fed all over the world by the most renowned chefs, but I think I have a nice palate (and I hate, hate, hate it when I hear someone say we don’t have great food in Denver!). I’ve eaten some really great stuff and some things I wish I could forget in my 45 years, but I have never enjoyed a bite of food as much as the first bite of the first dish Jon sent out that night.

The appearance and aroma of the quail set in front of me nearly made me swoon. I was told it was roasted semi-boneless quail with artichoke stuffing served with rapini, saffron emulsion. Holy crap! I took one bite and there was an explosion in my mouth. Creamy, buttery, just the right amount of salt, perfect textures, and flavors I wanted to savor. Think of a wine connoisseur at a tasting – this was something to drink in. In fact, I think I had to hold the first bite in my mouth for a moment, just to make sure I didn’t miss anything. I remember thinking, “This is the last bite of food I ever need to have.” The size of the dish was perfect as well. I still can’t quite understand what flavors I tasted and how they blended like nothing I’ve ever eaten. Truly, I could have left at that moment and been happy.

But the boys (and Dani – Danika, the only female chef in my class) had more to offer. I had no idea what Stephen, James, Zach, Dani, and the fearless Jon would do next, but I knew it would be good. (photo above in order: James, Jon, Dani, Stephen, and Zach)

Out came a lobster duo. (Yes, a lobster duo.) Lobster bisque and lobster salad with tarragon. The bisque was rich and creamy and had a delightful bite as it hit the back of my throat. The salad was cool and refreshing. The lobster shared billing with the tarragon and they felt like the perfect match for one another. I love lobster salad and crave bisque, but so often there is a spice or additive that precludes a gluten-free gal from partaking in their deliciousness. There was nothing unnecessary in either the bisque or the salad. Team Mizuna knows how to use the best fresh ingredients and coaxes flavor and texture out of them.

I’ll admit I should have cried uncle then. Thank goodness I didn’t or I would have missed the arctic char. The char had this delicate texture and a slightly crispy skin, incredible seasoning, and shared the plate with two types of beets and a pea stew puree. You should read that last sentence again. I’ll wait. The texture of the beets – how does one do that? The freshness of the pea stew puree – it was like tasting spring.

And that’s when I cried uncle. Frankly, Jon told me he could go all night – I was terribly sad I was dining alone – not only because I wasn’t able to share this experience, but also because if someone was sharing the dishes, I could have eaten more!

Dessert was brought to me by Jon himself. Jivara and hazelnut mousse – a duo of mousses. I have no idea how to describe the texture, but the flavors complimented each other in a rich and velvety fashion. If you have not had Jivara chocolate, put it on your list.

And then there was the passion fruit and raspberry pot de crème. This is normally served in as a tart – but I can’t imagine what even the most amazing piecrust could have done to improve on this dessert. I actually forgot to take a picture until I had already had a few bites of this tart, sweet, surprising little concoction. The layers of raspberry at the bottom were like little surprises in the best gift you’ve ever received. The only thought that came to mind (aside from, “I need to eat that again!”) was that if I am ever described as a dessert, this is this is the dessert I want to be! Sweet, tangy, tart, unexpected, and impossible to give up or step away from.

So there it is. The first time the Mizuna half of my chefs fed me. Watching them use their bodies to do their work, seeing their focus, teamwork, and joy, and feeling the affection and respect they sent me made me leave with one thought, “Next week, I need to step it up in class!” What an experience to have someone cause you to want to be better at your job because of how well they do theirs.

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